http://www.oldspower.com/vb/showthread.php?t=6068
Q: What is the difference in ceramic coated headers and "normal" headers? Are the ceramic ones worth the extra dough?
A: Basically a ceramic coated header has a coating on it that keeps it looking good and reduces engine bay temps down whereas a regular header just has paint on it which will all be gone within 10 minutes of running time and the engine compartment temp will soar. If you can part with the dough, ceramic coating is a very good idea. Magazines that do dyno tests have also seen hp gains from ceramic coating too.
The reason for the HP gains is that the ceramic coating is an excellent heat insulator and keeps the exhaust gases inside the pipes hot. The hot gases have more kinetic energy and will therefore move through the system faster, which enhances the exhasut flow and the scavenging effect in the cylinders.
Keeping the pipes looking nice and lowering the underhood temps are an added bonus!
I was thinking - you could buy regular headers, "custom" fit them to your car (you know, with hammer dents in the appropriate places) and then send them to Jet Hot or whoever and have them ceramic coated. Then they'll fit perfectly and you won't have to worry about damaging the coating when installing them.
Saturday, June 23, 2007
How can I ceramic coat the inside of my headers?
I've been told that the spray on ceramic coating Satin Black sold by Techline can be applied to the interior of the headers.
I tried and after a few minutes the ceramic material I has applied to the interior came out the end of the headers.
The exterior coating is still on and holding well.
Thanks
I tried and after a few minutes the ceramic material I has applied to the interior came out the end of the headers.
The exterior coating is still on and holding well.
Thanks
Doing it the hard way ..... and how!
http://www.classicalpontiac.com/restoration/4.html
For those of you who may be on a budget and still want to have longer lasting and non-rusting headers. You may want to try and coat them yourself. I had planned on the old BBQ black paint again. Then I came across a product called CERMAKROME made by TechLine. Its a high temp thermal barrier metallic/ceramic coating. IÕm sure there are other coatings on the market. I just happened to use this particular one.
In order to coat the headers properly you will need access to the following equipment and supplies:
a. sand blaster
b. airbrush or touchup sprayer
c. oven/heat source
d. 6 aluminum oven liners approx. 16"x18"(from supermarket)
e. fiber glass house insulation
The coating instructions are: sand blast the headers. Make sure all paint, rust and oils are 100 percent off. Do not bead blast. It doesn't open the metal surface like sand does or removes rust completely. Wipe parts with alcohol thinner or acetone. Do not use petroleum-based products. Warm parts to approximately 90 degrees. I used my wood stove in the garage. A heat gun would work also. This is to make sure no moisture is in the metal. The instructions say to spray a light fog on the radius first, then the rest of the pipe. I found that this left dry spots that when the over spray from spraying the rest of the pipe, left a bumpy, orange peel like texture. I found that by painting like I normally paint a part it work better. I kept a wetness to all of the area I was working on then moved down the pipe. Which kept the coating smooth looking and the finished results were far better.
But remember not to get it to thick.
I used an airbrush. I think a touchup gun may be too large to use. At least for me. Seeing that the pipes were pre-heated the coating starts to dry quickly. I hung the pipes from a wire so I could get 360 degrees around them. This let me start at the top and work my way down and around. I did spray the hard to get to areas first, of the section I was working on. Like where the pipe tubes come together as a group. Continue until the header is totally coated. The coating should be a .001" to .0015" thick. I couldn't mike it so I just put on a medium paint type thickness. The coating is now a light green color. The part now needs to be heated to about 150 degrees in an oven to dry. (10 min) The dry coating is a light gray. Then the part needs to be baked at 500 degrees for one hour. No you don't have to baste.
I used the household oven. Here's how. Seeing the oven door wouldn't close with the pipe in there. I extended the oven door. I put the pipe in the stove from rear corner to the opposite front corner. I wired the front corner to hang up to the top of the open end of the oven. I closed the door as far a possible. This will leave a tri-angle shape for the sides and a longer rectangle opening on top. I then cut and formed the oven pans to the tri-angles and made them about 1 _" thick. I stuffed them with the insulation. I did the same for the top opening. The oven pans are like aluminum pie pans, very easy to bend. This was also wrapped with aluminum foil to help seal on the oven and door areas. Of coarse you want to have this done prior to painting the pipe. Make sure that any oven switches (light inside) get insulated from the heat or they kinda melt. Make sure they have foil around them and are exposed to the outside of the stove if you can. I put an oven pan on the floor of the oven just in case.
There were no toxic type fumes or smells. Yes there was a baked surface smell but it wasn't that strong. I would try to close off the kitchen and open a window. After baking at 500 degrees for an hour let cool, do not quench. There will be a light gray /dirty white color on the pipe. Now take some "00" steel wool or medium scotch brite pads and start to sand the surface. What will appear will be a metallic coating. Which looks a lot like the "Jet Coatings", that you pay big $$s for, on the outside of your pipes. If you had a car undercoating type spray wand I'm sure you could also paint the inside. This is very similar to powder coating because the coating is made up of aluminum powder and phosphate/chromic solution. You then can keep sanding until they are polished or close to it.
There are several aspects I like about this type of coating. You can coat just about anything that can withstand 500 degrees (not internal engine parts). Also to touch up a nick in the coating, for headers, is warm engine, touch up then drive. This coating is very tuff but will scratch or chip if hit hard enough with some thing hard. Like a wrench when tightening the header bolts. The coating has been tested to a continuous 1200 degrees. It won't turn color and keeps the heat inside the pipe vs. the engine compartment. It can be cleaned up and thinned with water. Unless it dries first, so be careful about spillage.
For those of you who may be on a budget and still want to have longer lasting and non-rusting headers. You may want to try and coat them yourself. I had planned on the old BBQ black paint again. Then I came across a product called CERMAKROME made by TechLine. Its a high temp thermal barrier metallic/ceramic coating. IÕm sure there are other coatings on the market. I just happened to use this particular one.
In order to coat the headers properly you will need access to the following equipment and supplies:
a. sand blaster
b. airbrush or touchup sprayer
c. oven/heat source
d. 6 aluminum oven liners approx. 16"x18"(from supermarket)
e. fiber glass house insulation
The coating instructions are: sand blast the headers. Make sure all paint, rust and oils are 100 percent off. Do not bead blast. It doesn't open the metal surface like sand does or removes rust completely. Wipe parts with alcohol thinner or acetone. Do not use petroleum-based products. Warm parts to approximately 90 degrees. I used my wood stove in the garage. A heat gun would work also. This is to make sure no moisture is in the metal. The instructions say to spray a light fog on the radius first, then the rest of the pipe. I found that this left dry spots that when the over spray from spraying the rest of the pipe, left a bumpy, orange peel like texture. I found that by painting like I normally paint a part it work better. I kept a wetness to all of the area I was working on then moved down the pipe. Which kept the coating smooth looking and the finished results were far better.
But remember not to get it to thick.
I used an airbrush. I think a touchup gun may be too large to use. At least for me. Seeing that the pipes were pre-heated the coating starts to dry quickly. I hung the pipes from a wire so I could get 360 degrees around them. This let me start at the top and work my way down and around. I did spray the hard to get to areas first, of the section I was working on. Like where the pipe tubes come together as a group. Continue until the header is totally coated. The coating should be a .001" to .0015" thick. I couldn't mike it so I just put on a medium paint type thickness. The coating is now a light green color. The part now needs to be heated to about 150 degrees in an oven to dry. (10 min) The dry coating is a light gray. Then the part needs to be baked at 500 degrees for one hour. No you don't have to baste.
I used the household oven. Here's how. Seeing the oven door wouldn't close with the pipe in there. I extended the oven door. I put the pipe in the stove from rear corner to the opposite front corner. I wired the front corner to hang up to the top of the open end of the oven. I closed the door as far a possible. This will leave a tri-angle shape for the sides and a longer rectangle opening on top. I then cut and formed the oven pans to the tri-angles and made them about 1 _" thick. I stuffed them with the insulation. I did the same for the top opening. The oven pans are like aluminum pie pans, very easy to bend. This was also wrapped with aluminum foil to help seal on the oven and door areas. Of coarse you want to have this done prior to painting the pipe. Make sure that any oven switches (light inside) get insulated from the heat or they kinda melt. Make sure they have foil around them and are exposed to the outside of the stove if you can. I put an oven pan on the floor of the oven just in case.
There were no toxic type fumes or smells. Yes there was a baked surface smell but it wasn't that strong. I would try to close off the kitchen and open a window. After baking at 500 degrees for an hour let cool, do not quench. There will be a light gray /dirty white color on the pipe. Now take some "00" steel wool or medium scotch brite pads and start to sand the surface. What will appear will be a metallic coating. Which looks a lot like the "Jet Coatings", that you pay big $$s for, on the outside of your pipes. If you had a car undercoating type spray wand I'm sure you could also paint the inside. This is very similar to powder coating because the coating is made up of aluminum powder and phosphate/chromic solution. You then can keep sanding until they are polished or close to it.
There are several aspects I like about this type of coating. You can coat just about anything that can withstand 500 degrees (not internal engine parts). Also to touch up a nick in the coating, for headers, is warm engine, touch up then drive. This coating is very tuff but will scratch or chip if hit hard enough with some thing hard. Like a wrench when tightening the header bolts. The coating has been tested to a continuous 1200 degrees. It won't turn color and keeps the heat inside the pipe vs. the engine compartment. It can be cleaned up and thinned with water. Unless it dries first, so be careful about spillage.
Porsche ceramic exhaust
http://brentwoodrocketscience.com/r2/r2.htm
I acquired a 3.2 liter engine last year for the RSR project which was ulitmately sold as a rolling chassis. After some difficulty trying to sell the 3.2 longblock, it hit me one day...Why not build it and use it. After all, my 72' 911 chassis is pre-emissions so all the stops could be pulled out for a little hotter engine.
So, through word of mouth the 2.7 built almost 2 years (and 3,000 miles) ago is finding a home in a nicely done 914-6.
Nice mention of ceramic exhaust on Porsche.
I acquired a 3.2 liter engine last year for the RSR project which was ulitmately sold as a rolling chassis. After some difficulty trying to sell the 3.2 longblock, it hit me one day...Why not build it and use it. After all, my 72' 911 chassis is pre-emissions so all the stops could be pulled out for a little hotter engine.
So, through word of mouth the 2.7 built almost 2 years (and 3,000 miles) ago is finding a home in a nicely done 914-6.
Nice mention of ceramic exhaust on Porsche.
Pictures and albums about Ceramic headers published in rides
http://www.webshots.com/explains/rides/ceramic-headers.html
Interesting write up here.
New Extractors [Headers for the boys in the USA]published by camsvette in corvettes on 2005-01-03 last update on 2005-06-11The extractors had to be custome made with the fitting of the new Rack And Pinion Steering. All pipes will be ceramic coated when finishedKeywords: corvette, headers, corvette exhaust, headers, ceramic headers, ceramic exhaust
Interesting write up here.
New Extractors [Headers for the boys in the USA]published by camsvette in corvettes on 2005-01-03 last update on 2005-06-11The extractors had to be custome made with the fitting of the new Rack And Pinion Steering. All pipes will be ceramic coated when finishedKeywords: corvette, headers, corvette exhaust, headers, ceramic headers, ceramic exhaust
Johannesburg - June 2005
CBC2 Powerkote Coats Polo Components for Engen VW Cup
Johannesburg - June 2005 - CBC2 Powerkote has successfully applied its high temperature microfilm ceramic coatings to the exhaust manifolds of the 35 cars participating in the Engen VW Cup, part of the national SA Championship Power Tour.
The racing cars were experiencing several heat related problems during the race. Ian Pepper, a driver in the series, commented, "Our vehicles were excessively hot under the bonnet. The oil was running thin; the brake fluid tended to boil during the race, and the clutch fluid disappeared."
"We approached Powerkote to assist us to find a solution to these overheating problems, as well as to reduce the high temperature in the passenger compartments."
Powerkote applied its high temperature thermal barrier coating to all the exhaust manifolds of the 35 vehicles, which not only corrosion-protected the parts, but retained the heat within the manifold or header. This resulted in performance benefits as the exhaust gas velocity was accelerated, which reduced both back pressure and fuel contamination due to reversion.
The surface temperature of the manifold was also reduced substantially, which resulted in minimising the overall heat generated to the passenger compartment, as well as surrounding parts, such as alternators and starters. A secondary benefit was the reduction of heat drawn in through the carburettor.
Pepper added, "The ceramic coating reduced the heat up to 50%, which allowed the vehicles to run more consistently at optimum temperatures, which improved our overall performance."
The Engen VW Cup, which has been running for 9 years, is a popular series as all vehicles have identical specifications which keeps the development costs affordable, and ensures that the playing fields are level, so that the focus is on the drivers' skills.
Powerkote Cape recently sponsored Powerflow's VW Polo by coating the exhaust manifold, pistons and intake manifold for the race in the regional GTi challenge in the Western Cape.
Vehicle owner, Dick Bate, said, "The coating decreased the operating temperature of the engine, particularly the intake manifold, resulting in colder air and more consistent power, which is critical for racing conditions.
Johannesburg - June 2005 - CBC2 Powerkote has successfully applied its high temperature microfilm ceramic coatings to the exhaust manifolds of the 35 cars participating in the Engen VW Cup, part of the national SA Championship Power Tour.
The racing cars were experiencing several heat related problems during the race. Ian Pepper, a driver in the series, commented, "Our vehicles were excessively hot under the bonnet. The oil was running thin; the brake fluid tended to boil during the race, and the clutch fluid disappeared."
"We approached Powerkote to assist us to find a solution to these overheating problems, as well as to reduce the high temperature in the passenger compartments."
Powerkote applied its high temperature thermal barrier coating to all the exhaust manifolds of the 35 vehicles, which not only corrosion-protected the parts, but retained the heat within the manifold or header. This resulted in performance benefits as the exhaust gas velocity was accelerated, which reduced both back pressure and fuel contamination due to reversion.
The surface temperature of the manifold was also reduced substantially, which resulted in minimising the overall heat generated to the passenger compartment, as well as surrounding parts, such as alternators and starters. A secondary benefit was the reduction of heat drawn in through the carburettor.
Pepper added, "The ceramic coating reduced the heat up to 50%, which allowed the vehicles to run more consistently at optimum temperatures, which improved our overall performance."
The Engen VW Cup, which has been running for 9 years, is a popular series as all vehicles have identical specifications which keeps the development costs affordable, and ensures that the playing fields are level, so that the focus is on the drivers' skills.
Powerkote Cape recently sponsored Powerflow's VW Polo by coating the exhaust manifold, pistons and intake manifold for the race in the regional GTi challenge in the Western Cape.
Vehicle owner, Dick Bate, said, "The coating decreased the operating temperature of the engine, particularly the intake manifold, resulting in colder air and more consistent power, which is critical for racing conditions.
Black Satin Results
BHK Results
The following comes from
Chuck McClellan, Orlando, Fl.
So far, I have coated my down pipe and test pipe on my '87 Grand National with the Black Satin. The down pipe temps average 1500-1700 degrees. I recently went to the local drag way and couldn't believe the difference in my engine bay temps compared to other Grand Nationals after each run. My car seemed to cool down quicker and run cooler than before. Everyone thought the BHK would peel off as soon as the DP (Down Pipe) got warm but I have put over 100 miles on the car and its still looks great. I have several local club members wanting to get their DPs and headers coated after seeing mine.
As Dave indicates Black Satin works extremely well.
The following comes from
Chuck McClellan, Orlando, Fl.
So far, I have coated my down pipe and test pipe on my '87 Grand National with the Black Satin. The down pipe temps average 1500-1700 degrees. I recently went to the local drag way and couldn't believe the difference in my engine bay temps compared to other Grand Nationals after each run. My car seemed to cool down quicker and run cooler than before. Everyone thought the BHK would peel off as soon as the DP (Down Pipe) got warm but I have put over 100 miles on the car and its still looks great. I have several local club members wanting to get their DPs and headers coated after seeing mine.
As Dave indicates Black Satin works extremely well.
Performance Report
Performance Report
The following information was provided by Ron, of Accessories Plus.
A diesel truck running a Cummins diesel engine, originally dyno'd at 513 H.P. to the rear wheels. After coating the exhaust manifold, the pipes and the elbows leading to the stacks, but not the mufflers, the truck dyno'd at 524 H.P. at the rear wheels. The driver reported it was quieter and both engine and cab temperatures were cooler.
The following information was provided by Ron, of Accessories Plus.
A diesel truck running a Cummins diesel engine, originally dyno'd at 513 H.P. to the rear wheels. After coating the exhaust manifold, the pipes and the elbows leading to the stacks, but not the mufflers, the truck dyno'd at 524 H.P. at the rear wheels. The driver reported it was quieter and both engine and cab temperatures were cooler.
TEST REPORT
We just received a report on an independent test performed using
CBC2. BCD Coatings of Pulaski, TN, brought this information to our
attention.
The test engine was a Briggs and Stratton. The engine was initially
set up to run tests to determine the effectiveness of different weights
and volume of oil in the engine. The test also included the results
obtained by using an oil additive. A final series of tests were run
using CBC2 on the piston top and the head. The results are found below;
Average HP
Head Temp
Oil Temp
Uncoated
5.86
454f
206f
Coated
6.54
391f
168f
This clearly demonstrates the benefits to be found using CBC2.Over 10%
increase in HP
PLASMA VS LIQUID COATINGS
PLASMA VS LIQUID COATINGS
Several companies offer to apply plasma or flame sprayed coatings to exhaust systems. Typically these will be some form of a Zirconia Ceramic, though they can be metallic as well. The claim is made that these are superior to “other” liquid types of coatings. The “Other” types are generally referred to as primarily being cosmetic. Is this true?When compared thickness for thicknes, no significant difference is observed. When compared by the cost, liquid coatings are much more affordable. In one current AD, by a well known Coating Company who promotes Plasma Sprayed coatings, the AD refers to a 3% to 5% gain in power. Significantly this is in line with our experience with the liquid type coatings we manufacture. In reality H.P. gains will vary considerably depending on a variety of factors. Keeping heat in will accelerate exhaust gas velocity and improve engine efficiency and power. In addition reduced under hood temperatures can increase H.P., by reducing the temperature of the intake charge. Gains of as much as 25 H.P. have been seen.
When you factor in the lower cost, better looks and the proximity of shops applying Tech Line products, it makes good sense to make use of the advanced liquid coating technology available. Not to mention the cost savings available from the coatings we sell that can be applied by the average enthusiast at home.
It should also be considered that for increases in thermal barrier efficiency two basic approaches exist. One is to simply apply a thicker coating. This not only increases cost but weight as well. By using two different liquid coatings, comparable gains can be made, while using a thinner overall coating. This occurs because heat has a tendency to slow when passing through dissimilar materials. An example will be a base coat of HHBK followed by a top coat of BHK. This is more efficient than a comparable coating thickness of just a single material.
An example of the efficiency of our coatings is seen in an independent test run by Competition Cams. They coated one header only on a BB Chevy. The coated side and the uncoated side were both instrumented. The surface temperatures were reduced approximately 300f and in fact the comment made by the technicians was, that just after a dyno pull you could grab the coated header with your hand and not get burned. The radiated heat measured 1 inch away from the coated header was a maximum of 80F and the uncoated side showed 200F. Exhaust gas temperatures were over 1500F.
Good Looks, Efficiency, Cost Savings and Less Weight. Sound good?
Several companies offer to apply plasma or flame sprayed coatings to exhaust systems. Typically these will be some form of a Zirconia Ceramic, though they can be metallic as well. The claim is made that these are superior to “other” liquid types of coatings. The “Other” types are generally referred to as primarily being cosmetic. Is this true?When compared thickness for thicknes, no significant difference is observed. When compared by the cost, liquid coatings are much more affordable. In one current AD, by a well known Coating Company who promotes Plasma Sprayed coatings, the AD refers to a 3% to 5% gain in power. Significantly this is in line with our experience with the liquid type coatings we manufacture. In reality H.P. gains will vary considerably depending on a variety of factors. Keeping heat in will accelerate exhaust gas velocity and improve engine efficiency and power. In addition reduced under hood temperatures can increase H.P., by reducing the temperature of the intake charge. Gains of as much as 25 H.P. have been seen.
When you factor in the lower cost, better looks and the proximity of shops applying Tech Line products, it makes good sense to make use of the advanced liquid coating technology available. Not to mention the cost savings available from the coatings we sell that can be applied by the average enthusiast at home.
It should also be considered that for increases in thermal barrier efficiency two basic approaches exist. One is to simply apply a thicker coating. This not only increases cost but weight as well. By using two different liquid coatings, comparable gains can be made, while using a thinner overall coating. This occurs because heat has a tendency to slow when passing through dissimilar materials. An example will be a base coat of HHBK followed by a top coat of BHK. This is more efficient than a comparable coating thickness of just a single material.
An example of the efficiency of our coatings is seen in an independent test run by Competition Cams. They coated one header only on a BB Chevy. The coated side and the uncoated side were both instrumented. The surface temperatures were reduced approximately 300f and in fact the comment made by the technicians was, that just after a dyno pull you could grab the coated header with your hand and not get burned. The radiated heat measured 1 inch away from the coated header was a maximum of 80F and the uncoated side showed 200F. Exhaust gas temperatures were over 1500F.
Good Looks, Efficiency, Cost Savings and Less Weight. Sound good?
10% increase
Adam of ACR Engines
Adam had his intake coated with our Thermal Barrier and Thermal Dispersant products in an effort to reduce the intake charge temperature, for more power. He measured a 10 H.P. Increase with the coatings.
Adam had his intake coated with our Thermal Barrier and Thermal Dispersant products in an effort to reduce the intake charge temperature, for more power. He measured a 10 H.P. Increase with the coatings.
Corvette Fever
CORVETTE FEVER
In the June issue they had a press release on coated brakes. Two separate references were made to coatings. Both are on page 45. One reference was to the barrier coating and one on the dispersant. Both help keep things cooler. We hope to be able to release the test performed by a major brake manufacturer shortly. The results shocked them. Far better than they even hoped for!
In the June issue they had a press release on coated brakes. Two separate references were made to coatings. Both are on page 45. One reference was to the barrier coating and one on the dispersant. Both help keep things cooler. We hope to be able to release the test performed by a major brake manufacturer shortly. The results shocked them. Far better than they even hoped for!
Precision Engine Magazine
PRECISION ENGINE MAGAZINE
Jan /Feb 2003
More and more attention is being given to the coating of Internal Engine parts. The latest edition of Performance Engine magazine includes an article titled "Performance Engine Bearing Technology". In the article it addresses the benefits of coated bearings. It makes the point that coated bearings are not just for the professional engine builder and pro racers. They state; "it's the weekend race with a limited budget who can benefit ...." It then discusses the benefits when the oil film breaks down, which is a regular occurrence. In addition it draws attention to coatings used to protect the camshaft.
Jan /Feb 2003
More and more attention is being given to the coating of Internal Engine parts. The latest edition of Performance Engine magazine includes an article titled "Performance Engine Bearing Technology". In the article it addresses the benefits of coated bearings. It makes the point that coated bearings are not just for the professional engine builder and pro racers. They state; "it's the weekend race with a limited budget who can benefit ...." It then discusses the benefits when the oil film breaks down, which is a regular occurrence. In addition it draws attention to coatings used to protect the camshaft.
Speedway Illistrated Discussion
Speedway Illustrated Magazine
An article has appeared in this magazine discussing the advantages to be found in using Thermal Barrier Coatings authored by David Vizard. It includes information on the benefits to be found in coating intake manifold bottoms as well as coating the intake runners. By coating these surfaces you can effectively reduce the intake temperature as well as reduce the heat that can be absorbed by the air or air / fuel mix as it passes through the runners.
An additional point was made about the gain that can be seen by coating the intake valve. The incoming air/fuel mixture will pass over the valve just before entering the combustion chamber. When the mix passes over the valve it will pick up heat that has been absorbed by the valve, during combustion. This can lead in extreme cases to detonation. In less extreme cases it still can reduce power. Coating the valve reduces the heat absorbed and contributes to a "cooler" air fuel mix, which means a greater power potential. Wheel Coatings
There is a great deal of interest in wheel coatings. This is of special, interest to Circle Track competitors as wheel and tire temperatures are critical. Tech Line Coatings has been recommending a variety of coatings for wheels. By choosing the proper coating wheel, tire and break temperatures can be controlled to a beneficial degree.
An article has appeared in this magazine discussing the advantages to be found in using Thermal Barrier Coatings authored by David Vizard. It includes information on the benefits to be found in coating intake manifold bottoms as well as coating the intake runners. By coating these surfaces you can effectively reduce the intake temperature as well as reduce the heat that can be absorbed by the air or air / fuel mix as it passes through the runners.
An additional point was made about the gain that can be seen by coating the intake valve. The incoming air/fuel mixture will pass over the valve just before entering the combustion chamber. When the mix passes over the valve it will pick up heat that has been absorbed by the valve, during combustion. This can lead in extreme cases to detonation. In less extreme cases it still can reduce power. Coating the valve reduces the heat absorbed and contributes to a "cooler" air fuel mix, which means a greater power potential. Wheel Coatings
There is a great deal of interest in wheel coatings. This is of special, interest to Circle Track competitors as wheel and tire temperatures are critical. Tech Line Coatings has been recommending a variety of coatings for wheels. By choosing the proper coating wheel, tire and break temperatures can be controlled to a beneficial degree.
Dyno Test
Dyno Test
From Sartor Bros. in South Africa.
A test was performed in South Africa to see to what extent header coatings could reduce the surface temperatures on stock exhaust manifolds . The test was to see if the coatings would allow the vehicles to meet or be exempt from Regulation 10.25.2(b) of the Mine Health and Safety Act of 1996. A Toyota 2 ton truck running a 2L: diesel was to be used. Sartor Bros coated the test engines manifolds with Tech Line coating products.
TIt is necessary to reduce the surface temperatures as there is a significant danger of igniting gases when the equipment is use, in these huge underground mines. The test was conducted at Twistdraai Central Colliery.
The Results were as follows:
The maximum temperature of the manifold( at the exhaust flange) was 166C. ( Previously recorded 238C). This was at the steepest incline of the mine. The highest temperature on level ground was 142C. The highest exhaust branch outlet temperature was 129C.
If you convert to Fahrenheit, the drop was from 460f to 330f. Since the uncoated temperature was high enough to cause ignition of the gases this reduction is significant and would potentially allow the use of these engines in the mines.
CBC2/CBX and Compression Ratios. We are regularly asked how much additional compression can be run when one of Tech Line’s thermal barrier coatings are used on piston tops. Since the coating changes the efficiency of the combustion chamber and reduces the likelihood of entering into detonation, it is possible to run more compression.Since there are so many variables we cannot give an absolute figure. However in general you can run 1 point more in compression. We have had reports over the years that 10.5 to 10.75 is possible. It should be noted that in one instance a 302 Ford engine was built that had 12 to 1 compression and was able to be driven and raced on pump gas. One of our own employees ran a 302 Chevy engine, with a nice street cam with a nominal 12 to 1 compression and he regularly drove it to work on pump gas with no problems.
You can find more information at HTTP://www.engineceramics.com
From Sartor Bros. in South Africa.
A test was performed in South Africa to see to what extent header coatings could reduce the surface temperatures on stock exhaust manifolds . The test was to see if the coatings would allow the vehicles to meet or be exempt from Regulation 10.25.2(b) of the Mine Health and Safety Act of 1996. A Toyota 2 ton truck running a 2L: diesel was to be used. Sartor Bros coated the test engines manifolds with Tech Line coating products.
TIt is necessary to reduce the surface temperatures as there is a significant danger of igniting gases when the equipment is use, in these huge underground mines. The test was conducted at Twistdraai Central Colliery.
The Results were as follows:
The maximum temperature of the manifold( at the exhaust flange) was 166C. ( Previously recorded 238C). This was at the steepest incline of the mine. The highest temperature on level ground was 142C. The highest exhaust branch outlet temperature was 129C.
If you convert to Fahrenheit, the drop was from 460f to 330f. Since the uncoated temperature was high enough to cause ignition of the gases this reduction is significant and would potentially allow the use of these engines in the mines.
CBC2/CBX and Compression Ratios. We are regularly asked how much additional compression can be run when one of Tech Line’s thermal barrier coatings are used on piston tops. Since the coating changes the efficiency of the combustion chamber and reduces the likelihood of entering into detonation, it is possible to run more compression.Since there are so many variables we cannot give an absolute figure. However in general you can run 1 point more in compression. We have had reports over the years that 10.5 to 10.75 is possible. It should be noted that in one instance a 302 Ford engine was built that had 12 to 1 compression and was able to be driven and raced on pump gas. One of our own employees ran a 302 Chevy engine, with a nice street cam with a nominal 12 to 1 compression and he regularly drove it to work on pump gas with no problems.
You can find more information at HTTP://www.engineceramics.com
Friday, June 22, 2007
Coating Valve Springs
Coating Valve Springs
Valve Springs are subject to two types of friction. The first is internal friction that occurs due to the movement of the spring as it flexes. The second is external and is developed as the spring moves against another surface. Even single spring sets develop friction through rubbing against the head/ shim and the retainer. The result of this friction is heat and wear. By far heat is the greatest enemy of steel springs. Steel springs will fatigue if the temperature of the spring reaches 400F. At this point the spring will lose a significant amount of its designed tension and will be essentially useless for performance use. Stainless springs can generally handle temperatures approaching 900F. By applying a properly formulated Dry Film Lubricant, the life of the spring can be enhanced significantly. In testing, valve spring life in Performance Applications has shown increases from 2 to 10 times the norm. How is this accomplished? Primarily through a reduction in the heat generated by friction. This is accomplished through more efficient thermal transfer. In addition, the lubricity of the coating will reduce the heat that is generated by externally induced friction. The heat that is generated can actually cause the spring to break, not just fatigue. This might be likened to the effect of flexing a piece of steel. If repeated flexing is done the metal will eventually break at the point showing the most deflection, which many times are also the thinnest areas. That point will also be very hot to the touch as the internal friction is highest at that point. The amount of heat that is generated by a valve spring in motion will vary over the surface of the spring. When multiple springs are run together in a stack, the frictional created heat is increased.
By coating a spring we reduce the heat that can build up in two ways. The First is through the reduction in externally generated friction. By coating the spring, sliding or rubbing friction is reduced with a measurable reduction in the valve spring temperature. The Second way is very important. A properly formulated coating will also more evenly distribute the heat over the surface of the spring reducing the likelihood of generating a hot spot, leading to breakage. In addition, a properly formulated coating will aid in more rapid transfer of the heat generated to the oil, which cools the spring. Unfortunately, some coating systems actually insulate the spring from the oil which can have a detrimental effect on spring life. The ability of a coating to reduce friction also means it will reduce wear. Since valve springs do not uniformly contact another surface, the wear pattern is not even. As wear occurs, the spring can become weaker in these areas and ultimately break. This is particularly true in multiple spring stacks, but is also seen in single spring application. Considering that in many racing applications, springs will barely survive the race, any increase in the ability of the spring to maintain proper seat pressure is desirable. By combining reduced friction and wear with reduced heat generation and enhanced cooling of the spring, spring life and performance can dramatically increase.
More information can be found at http://www.engineceramics.com
Valve Springs are subject to two types of friction. The first is internal friction that occurs due to the movement of the spring as it flexes. The second is external and is developed as the spring moves against another surface. Even single spring sets develop friction through rubbing against the head/ shim and the retainer. The result of this friction is heat and wear. By far heat is the greatest enemy of steel springs. Steel springs will fatigue if the temperature of the spring reaches 400F. At this point the spring will lose a significant amount of its designed tension and will be essentially useless for performance use. Stainless springs can generally handle temperatures approaching 900F. By applying a properly formulated Dry Film Lubricant, the life of the spring can be enhanced significantly. In testing, valve spring life in Performance Applications has shown increases from 2 to 10 times the norm. How is this accomplished? Primarily through a reduction in the heat generated by friction. This is accomplished through more efficient thermal transfer. In addition, the lubricity of the coating will reduce the heat that is generated by externally induced friction. The heat that is generated can actually cause the spring to break, not just fatigue. This might be likened to the effect of flexing a piece of steel. If repeated flexing is done the metal will eventually break at the point showing the most deflection, which many times are also the thinnest areas. That point will also be very hot to the touch as the internal friction is highest at that point. The amount of heat that is generated by a valve spring in motion will vary over the surface of the spring. When multiple springs are run together in a stack, the frictional created heat is increased.
By coating a spring we reduce the heat that can build up in two ways. The First is through the reduction in externally generated friction. By coating the spring, sliding or rubbing friction is reduced with a measurable reduction in the valve spring temperature. The Second way is very important. A properly formulated coating will also more evenly distribute the heat over the surface of the spring reducing the likelihood of generating a hot spot, leading to breakage. In addition, a properly formulated coating will aid in more rapid transfer of the heat generated to the oil, which cools the spring. Unfortunately, some coating systems actually insulate the spring from the oil which can have a detrimental effect on spring life. The ability of a coating to reduce friction also means it will reduce wear. Since valve springs do not uniformly contact another surface, the wear pattern is not even. As wear occurs, the spring can become weaker in these areas and ultimately break. This is particularly true in multiple spring stacks, but is also seen in single spring application. Considering that in many racing applications, springs will barely survive the race, any increase in the ability of the spring to maintain proper seat pressure is desirable. By combining reduced friction and wear with reduced heat generation and enhanced cooling of the spring, spring life and performance can dramatically increase.
More information can be found at http://www.engineceramics.com
Coating Valve Train Components
Coating Valve Train Components
T he valve train sees many benefits from the use of Dry Film Lubricants. All of the parts are minimally lubricated by engine oil. Consequently, excessive wear is always of concern, especially at start up or after the engine has been sitting for an extended period. By using an Extreme Pressure Bonded Lubricant we can provide protection well beyond that ex pected from even the best motor oils. The primary components to be coated are the Cam, Lifters, Push Rods and Rocker Arms ( Valves will be dealt with seperately ). Normal lub rication is provided by a film of oil that is either pumped to the contact point or is splashed onto the part. In either instance oil film breakdown is of concern. By permanently bonding a lubricating coating in place we enhance the ability of the oil to lubricate and provide add itional lubrication even after the oil film fails. Typical motor oils will fail at pressures below 10,000 psi. Properly formulated bonded lubricants can withstand pressure in excess of 350,000 psi
The Dry Film Lubricant functions in two ways. First, it acts as an "oil retaining material" rather than an oil shedding material, as are some materials like Teflon. This means that it reduces the ability of a small amount of oil to flow rapidly over the coated surface. In doing this it actually reduces friction as the remaining oil slides between the mating surfaces very easily and allows the parts to move much more freely. This action also reduces the like lihood of the oil film being "pushed" off the surface. A secondary benefit to this action is that it allows the oil to absorb more heat, thus helping to cool the parts more effeciently. The enhanced sliding action can be demonstrated by the way a "Slip and Slide" functions. This slick piece of plastic does not allow a body to slide over it until a film of water is pre sent. A small amount of the water is retained by the plastic surface as well as by the skin and clothing of the "slidee". With water running over this slick surface, a body will very easily slide for an extended distance. If the surfaces shed water, the effect wouldn't be as dramatic. The layers of water moving at different speeds act like little "rollers" that allow free movement. The Dry Film Lubricant creates the same effect by retaining a small amount of slower moving oil on the coated surface, thus actually allowing easier movement of the parts.
The Second function takes over when the oil film would normally break down either due to pressure or the effect of high heat on the lubricant and allow metal to metal contact. The bonded coating does not "break down" nor cold flow at higher pressure nor is it significantly affected by high temperatures, thus maintaing a lubricous film between the mating surfaces inhibiting metal to metal contact. This film provides a second layer of protection that normally will lubricate at loads in excess of the "crush" or deformation point of the base metal. This is especially critical at start up when a well defined mating surface is desired and excessive wear due to lack of lubrication can do significant damage. Camshafts especially benefit from the application of a Bonded Lubricant at start up where a cam can be damaged if the lub ricating film is not maintained during break in. The use of a Bonded Lubricant such as CERMA LUBE can in many instances eliminate the need to break in the cam using low pressure valve springs. When we combine these features not only do we see better mating surfaces, we can also expect to see less wear, reduced friction and attendant power gains as well as longer part life. In addition, this can allow the Performance Engine Builder to reduce the amount of oil flow ing to these parts thus directing moore of the oil flow to the crank assmebly. A variety of lub ricating coatings are available for these surfaces. DFL-1, TLML and CERMALUBE are the most popular.
More information can be found at http://www.engineceramics.com/
T he valve train sees many benefits from the use of Dry Film Lubricants. All of the parts are minimally lubricated by engine oil. Consequently, excessive wear is always of concern, especially at start up or after the engine has been sitting for an extended period. By using an Extreme Pressure Bonded Lubricant we can provide protection well beyond that ex pected from even the best motor oils. The primary components to be coated are the Cam, Lifters, Push Rods and Rocker Arms ( Valves will be dealt with seperately ). Normal lub rication is provided by a film of oil that is either pumped to the contact point or is splashed onto the part. In either instance oil film breakdown is of concern. By permanently bonding a lubricating coating in place we enhance the ability of the oil to lubricate and provide add itional lubrication even after the oil film fails. Typical motor oils will fail at pressures below 10,000 psi. Properly formulated bonded lubricants can withstand pressure in excess of 350,000 psi
The Dry Film Lubricant functions in two ways. First, it acts as an "oil retaining material" rather than an oil shedding material, as are some materials like Teflon. This means that it reduces the ability of a small amount of oil to flow rapidly over the coated surface. In doing this it actually reduces friction as the remaining oil slides between the mating surfaces very easily and allows the parts to move much more freely. This action also reduces the like lihood of the oil film being "pushed" off the surface. A secondary benefit to this action is that it allows the oil to absorb more heat, thus helping to cool the parts more effeciently. The enhanced sliding action can be demonstrated by the way a "Slip and Slide" functions. This slick piece of plastic does not allow a body to slide over it until a film of water is pre sent. A small amount of the water is retained by the plastic surface as well as by the skin and clothing of the "slidee". With water running over this slick surface, a body will very easily slide for an extended distance. If the surfaces shed water, the effect wouldn't be as dramatic. The layers of water moving at different speeds act like little "rollers" that allow free movement. The Dry Film Lubricant creates the same effect by retaining a small amount of slower moving oil on the coated surface, thus actually allowing easier movement of the parts.
The Second function takes over when the oil film would normally break down either due to pressure or the effect of high heat on the lubricant and allow metal to metal contact. The bonded coating does not "break down" nor cold flow at higher pressure nor is it significantly affected by high temperatures, thus maintaing a lubricous film between the mating surfaces inhibiting metal to metal contact. This film provides a second layer of protection that normally will lubricate at loads in excess of the "crush" or deformation point of the base metal. This is especially critical at start up when a well defined mating surface is desired and excessive wear due to lack of lubrication can do significant damage. Camshafts especially benefit from the application of a Bonded Lubricant at start up where a cam can be damaged if the lub ricating film is not maintained during break in. The use of a Bonded Lubricant such as CERMA LUBE can in many instances eliminate the need to break in the cam using low pressure valve springs. When we combine these features not only do we see better mating surfaces, we can also expect to see less wear, reduced friction and attendant power gains as well as longer part life. In addition, this can allow the Performance Engine Builder to reduce the amount of oil flow ing to these parts thus directing moore of the oil flow to the crank assmebly. A variety of lub ricating coatings are available for these surfaces. DFL-1, TLML and CERMALUBE are the most popular.
More information can be found at http://www.engineceramics.com/
Coating the Oil Pan
Coating the Oil Pan
To many, the purpose for having an oil pan is simply to keep the oil from running onto the ground. However, the oil pan provides additional functions. It allows the oil to pool at the oil pump pick up and it aids in the cooling of the oil. Many people ask to have their oil pans Teflon coated to aid in oil shedding. While a speedy return of the oil to the sump is desirable, it may not be the best way to go for overall performance. Teflon and similar materials are thermal barriers and would inhibit the pan from cooling the oil.
When coating an oil pan, in most applications, it is important to allow the pan to cool the returning oil. It would be better to use a coating that not only has good oil shedding abilities, but also helps rather than hinders the ability to transfer heat from the hot oil into the pan. In addition, coating the outside of the pan with a thermal dispersant will allow the pan to transfer heat from the metal surface to the surrounding air even faster than bare metal. Painting a pan for appearance, using a typical paint, can reduce the ability of the pan to radiate heat. Chrome plating the pan simply further aggravates the problem. The solution is to use Tech Line's TLTD both inside and out. TLTD is an oil shedding, Thermal Dispersant. In addition, it has excellent corrosion inhibiting characteristics and contains lubricants that reduce the ability of dirt and other debris to accumulate on the outside of the pan. This will allow the oil to return to the sump rapidly and help cool the oil as it runs over the coated surface, as TLTD accelerates the transfer of heat into the pan. The heat now in the pan will also be transfered to the outside air flow faster through the TLTD that has been applied to the exterior of the pan. The result is cooler oil.
TLTD functions in a number of ways. First, by being applied in a very thin coat, it does not significantly reduce the surface area of the pan. Second, it contains thermally active ingredients that carry heat faster than the bare metal of the pan. The lubricants allow the oil to return to the sump faster than over bare metal. The lubricants also reduce the ability of dirt and other debris to stick to the surface. Any build up of debris will reduce the surface area of the pan and reduce its ability to shed heat. Finally, the coating is a very good corrosion inhibitor. The formation of any oxidation layer, either rust on steel or an oxidizing of aluminum, will reduce the ability of the pan to shed heat. When all the characteristics of TLTD are combined, the oil pan functions in the best possible manner. The EXCEPTION to the above would be in the case of an engine used in very short competitive periods such as in the case with Drag Racing. In these instances, an oil shedding thermal barrier such as Tech Line's TLLB should be used. TLLB will allow the oil to return to the sump faster and at the same time keep the oil from cooling by reducing thermal transfer. In Drag Racing and similar activities it is not uncommon for the oil to actually be below the optimum temperate and TLLB will help keep as much heat as possible in the oil while sitting in the staging lanes.
More information can be found at http://www.engineceramics.com/
To many, the purpose for having an oil pan is simply to keep the oil from running onto the ground. However, the oil pan provides additional functions. It allows the oil to pool at the oil pump pick up and it aids in the cooling of the oil. Many people ask to have their oil pans Teflon coated to aid in oil shedding. While a speedy return of the oil to the sump is desirable, it may not be the best way to go for overall performance. Teflon and similar materials are thermal barriers and would inhibit the pan from cooling the oil.
When coating an oil pan, in most applications, it is important to allow the pan to cool the returning oil. It would be better to use a coating that not only has good oil shedding abilities, but also helps rather than hinders the ability to transfer heat from the hot oil into the pan. In addition, coating the outside of the pan with a thermal dispersant will allow the pan to transfer heat from the metal surface to the surrounding air even faster than bare metal. Painting a pan for appearance, using a typical paint, can reduce the ability of the pan to radiate heat. Chrome plating the pan simply further aggravates the problem. The solution is to use Tech Line's TLTD both inside and out. TLTD is an oil shedding, Thermal Dispersant. In addition, it has excellent corrosion inhibiting characteristics and contains lubricants that reduce the ability of dirt and other debris to accumulate on the outside of the pan. This will allow the oil to return to the sump rapidly and help cool the oil as it runs over the coated surface, as TLTD accelerates the transfer of heat into the pan. The heat now in the pan will also be transfered to the outside air flow faster through the TLTD that has been applied to the exterior of the pan. The result is cooler oil.
TLTD functions in a number of ways. First, by being applied in a very thin coat, it does not significantly reduce the surface area of the pan. Second, it contains thermally active ingredients that carry heat faster than the bare metal of the pan. The lubricants allow the oil to return to the sump faster than over bare metal. The lubricants also reduce the ability of dirt and other debris to stick to the surface. Any build up of debris will reduce the surface area of the pan and reduce its ability to shed heat. Finally, the coating is a very good corrosion inhibitor. The formation of any oxidation layer, either rust on steel or an oxidizing of aluminum, will reduce the ability of the pan to shed heat. When all the characteristics of TLTD are combined, the oil pan functions in the best possible manner. The EXCEPTION to the above would be in the case of an engine used in very short competitive periods such as in the case with Drag Racing. In these instances, an oil shedding thermal barrier such as Tech Line's TLLB should be used. TLLB will allow the oil to return to the sump faster and at the same time keep the oil from cooling by reducing thermal transfer. In Drag Racing and similar activities it is not uncommon for the oil to actually be below the optimum temperate and TLLB will help keep as much heat as possible in the oil while sitting in the staging lanes.
More information can be found at http://www.engineceramics.com/
Coating Pistons
Coating Pistons
The piston is one of the very first parts that should be considered for coating. Coating the piston reduces friction and wear, reduces part operating temperature, can increase horse power and torque, reduce or eliminate detonation, allow higher compression ratios to be utilized and allow tighter piston to wall clearances for a better ring seal.
Pistons can be coated with three different systems. They are Dry Film Lubricants, Thermal Barriers and Oil Shedding Coatings. These systems can be beneficial on all pistons whether 4 stroke, 2 stroke, gas, alcohol, diesel, reciprocal or rotary.
We will look at the Thermal Barrier coatings first. Either CBC2 or CBX may be applied. CBX is recommended for all High Compression (13:1 and higher), Turbo Charged, Super Charged or engines running Nitrous Oxide. CBC2 should be run on all other engines. Both CBC2 and CBX insulate the piston against damaging heat transfer, keeping more of the heat generated by combustion, pushing down on the piston for greater power. By retaining minimal heat on the surface of the piston, less heat is transferred to the incoming fuel mixture, leading to a reduction in pre-ignition which leads to detonation. The coatings can also allow heat at the sur face to move more evenly over the surface reducing hot spots and the coatings reflect heat into the chamber for more even distribution of heat, allowing more efficient combustion of the fuel. This allows more of the fuel molecules to be oxidized, which in turn, means less fuel is needed for optimum power. The result is an engine that makes more power, can be run with a leaner air/fuel mix and less initial timing and has less thermal ex pansion due to a reduction in the heat absorbed.
By applying a Dry Film Lubricant, friction, galling and wear is reduced. The lubricants are capable of carrying loads beyond the crush point of the piston. In addition, the lubricants are "fluid retaining" materials that actually hold oil to the surface beyond the pressure where the oil would normally be squeezed off. The ability to carry greater loads, up to 350,000 PSI, while increasing lubricity (reduced friction) allows tighter piston to wall clearances to be run. This leads to better sealing with no increase in friction.
By applying Tech Line's TLTD to the underside of the piston, oil that is splashed onto the piston to cool it will shed rapidly. Heat transfers most rapidly when there is a large difference in temperature. The longer oil clings to a hot surface the hotter the oil becomes. By shedding the cooling oil more rapidly, cooler oil is splashed over the surface more frequently. If the oil "hangs" longer, it absorbes less heat and blocks cooler oil from contacting the hot surface. A cooler piston grows less, allowing tighter piston to wall clearances.
The following are recommended for pistons: DFL-1, TLML, CERMALUBE (Highly recommended), CBC2, CBX and TLTD.
More information can be found at http://www.engineceramics.com/
The piston is one of the very first parts that should be considered for coating. Coating the piston reduces friction and wear, reduces part operating temperature, can increase horse power and torque, reduce or eliminate detonation, allow higher compression ratios to be utilized and allow tighter piston to wall clearances for a better ring seal.
Pistons can be coated with three different systems. They are Dry Film Lubricants, Thermal Barriers and Oil Shedding Coatings. These systems can be beneficial on all pistons whether 4 stroke, 2 stroke, gas, alcohol, diesel, reciprocal or rotary.
We will look at the Thermal Barrier coatings first. Either CBC2 or CBX may be applied. CBX is recommended for all High Compression (13:1 and higher), Turbo Charged, Super Charged or engines running Nitrous Oxide. CBC2 should be run on all other engines. Both CBC2 and CBX insulate the piston against damaging heat transfer, keeping more of the heat generated by combustion, pushing down on the piston for greater power. By retaining minimal heat on the surface of the piston, less heat is transferred to the incoming fuel mixture, leading to a reduction in pre-ignition which leads to detonation. The coatings can also allow heat at the sur face to move more evenly over the surface reducing hot spots and the coatings reflect heat into the chamber for more even distribution of heat, allowing more efficient combustion of the fuel. This allows more of the fuel molecules to be oxidized, which in turn, means less fuel is needed for optimum power. The result is an engine that makes more power, can be run with a leaner air/fuel mix and less initial timing and has less thermal ex pansion due to a reduction in the heat absorbed.
By applying a Dry Film Lubricant, friction, galling and wear is reduced. The lubricants are capable of carrying loads beyond the crush point of the piston. In addition, the lubricants are "fluid retaining" materials that actually hold oil to the surface beyond the pressure where the oil would normally be squeezed off. The ability to carry greater loads, up to 350,000 PSI, while increasing lubricity (reduced friction) allows tighter piston to wall clearances to be run. This leads to better sealing with no increase in friction.
By applying Tech Line's TLTD to the underside of the piston, oil that is splashed onto the piston to cool it will shed rapidly. Heat transfers most rapidly when there is a large difference in temperature. The longer oil clings to a hot surface the hotter the oil becomes. By shedding the cooling oil more rapidly, cooler oil is splashed over the surface more frequently. If the oil "hangs" longer, it absorbes less heat and blocks cooler oil from contacting the hot surface. A cooler piston grows less, allowing tighter piston to wall clearances.
The following are recommended for pistons: DFL-1, TLML, CERMALUBE (Highly recommended), CBC2, CBX and TLTD.
More information can be found at http://www.engineceramics.com/
Coating Cylinder Heads
Coating Cylinder Heads
One of the best applications for coatings is in combustion chamber areas. Coating the combustion chamber of a cylinder head can increase performance significantly. In addition, more compression can be run as the proper coating will provide resistance to detonation. Tuning changes can also increase the level of power generated. Coating the intake and exhaust runners can also impact performance. Coating the exterior and the area under the valve cover can improve heat management. By coating the combustion chamber, we reduce the amount of heat that escapes during the power stroke which means more of the heat generated is utilized in "pushing" the piston down. The coating also insulates the surfaces so that they absorb less heat, reducing the load on the cooling system and reducing the amount of dimensional change the head may see from the heat it absorbs. The coating functions in several ways: (1) To keep heat in (Thermal Barrier) (2) To move heat over the surface to reduce hot spots (Radiation) (3) Reflect heat into "cooler" or shrouded areas of the chamber (Convection) and (4) The coating retains less residual heat from combustion than other thermal barriers, thus transferring less heat to the incoming fuel charge (Reduced Thermal Transfer). Combining these features increases power levels, reduces part operating temperature, aids in reducing detonation and can increase fuel efficiency and reduce emissions. By transferring less heat to the incoming fuel charge detonation is reduced, as pre ignition which causes detonation, is generally the result of excessive heat absorption by the fuel as it enters the combustion chamber. By allowing the heat of combustion to be more efficiently used, the fuel charge is better combusted, allowing more compression while reducing the fuel quantity need (in most cases) and increasing power. By accelerating the burn rate of the fuel, through better heat management, less timing is needed to have the optimum burn occur at top dead center. CBC2 is the standard coating to be used, with CBX recommended for very high compression motors (13:1 and above) or for engines that have tight quench areas as well as Turbo Charged, Super Charged and engines utilizing Nitrous Oxide systems. Coating the ports helps with flow and provides additional thermal benefits. Coating the intake runner with a Dry Film Coating can reduce fuel drop out while insulating the incoming fuel from the heat of the head. Coating the exhaust with TLHB can improve flow by creating a very slick surface, while reducing the amount of heat that can pass from the hot exhaust flow into the head. CBC2 or CBX may also be used in exhaust ports, though they are not as "slick" as TLHB. Coating the exterior of the head with Tech Line's TLTD (Thermal Dispersant) allows for faster transfer of the heat that is absorbed from combustion, into the air flow around the head, thus allowing the head to run cooler. This will impact the amount of heat transferred to the intake manifold as well as reduce the heat that accessories will be exposed to, that are mounted on or near the head. When TLTD is applied to the area under the valve cover, better oil drain back is achieved as well as better thermal transfer to the oil, which is cooling the head and valve springs.
One of the best applications for coatings is in combustion chamber areas. Coating the combustion chamber of a cylinder head can increase performance significantly. In addition, more compression can be run as the proper coating will provide resistance to detonation. Tuning changes can also increase the level of power generated. Coating the intake and exhaust runners can also impact performance. Coating the exterior and the area under the valve cover can improve heat management. By coating the combustion chamber, we reduce the amount of heat that escapes during the power stroke which means more of the heat generated is utilized in "pushing" the piston down. The coating also insulates the surfaces so that they absorb less heat, reducing the load on the cooling system and reducing the amount of dimensional change the head may see from the heat it absorbs. The coating functions in several ways: (1) To keep heat in (Thermal Barrier) (2) To move heat over the surface to reduce hot spots (Radiation) (3) Reflect heat into "cooler" or shrouded areas of the chamber (Convection) and (4) The coating retains less residual heat from combustion than other thermal barriers, thus transferring less heat to the incoming fuel charge (Reduced Thermal Transfer). Combining these features increases power levels, reduces part operating temperature, aids in reducing detonation and can increase fuel efficiency and reduce emissions. By transferring less heat to the incoming fuel charge detonation is reduced, as pre ignition which causes detonation, is generally the result of excessive heat absorption by the fuel as it enters the combustion chamber. By allowing the heat of combustion to be more efficiently used, the fuel charge is better combusted, allowing more compression while reducing the fuel quantity need (in most cases) and increasing power. By accelerating the burn rate of the fuel, through better heat management, less timing is needed to have the optimum burn occur at top dead center. CBC2 is the standard coating to be used, with CBX recommended for very high compression motors (13:1 and above) or for engines that have tight quench areas as well as Turbo Charged, Super Charged and engines utilizing Nitrous Oxide systems. Coating the ports helps with flow and provides additional thermal benefits. Coating the intake runner with a Dry Film Coating can reduce fuel drop out while insulating the incoming fuel from the heat of the head. Coating the exhaust with TLHB can improve flow by creating a very slick surface, while reducing the amount of heat that can pass from the hot exhaust flow into the head. CBC2 or CBX may also be used in exhaust ports, though they are not as "slick" as TLHB. Coating the exterior of the head with Tech Line's TLTD (Thermal Dispersant) allows for faster transfer of the heat that is absorbed from combustion, into the air flow around the head, thus allowing the head to run cooler. This will impact the amount of heat transferred to the intake manifold as well as reduce the heat that accessories will be exposed to, that are mounted on or near the head. When TLTD is applied to the area under the valve cover, better oil drain back is achieved as well as better thermal transfer to the oil, which is cooling the head and valve springs.
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Cycle and Automotive Coatings
